Restaurants
G by Mike Isabella and Kapnos, Washington, DC; Graffiato, Washington, DC and Richmond, Virginia; Kapnos Taverna, Yona, and Pepita, Arlington, Virginia; Requin, Merrifield, Virginia; Kapnos Kouzina, Bethesda, Maryland; G Sandwich Shop, Kapnos at the Park, and Catchfly Kitchen, Nationals Park, DC; and Kapnos Taverna, Reagan National Airport
Next up
Arroz and Requin at the Wharf, Washington, DC; Kapnos Taverna, College Park, Maryland; and Isabella Eatery, Fairfax, Virginia
A rendering of the upcoming Arroz, designed by Natalie Park Design Studio.
On early food memories
I started cooking when I was 5 or 6 years old, rolling meatballs and doing a little prep in the kitchen for my grandmother—picking herbs, breading eggplant or chicken cutlets. I never knew what a real chef was, but I always wanted to cook.
On working for veterans like chefs José Andrés and Marcus Samuelsson, and restaurateur Stephen Starr
It’s a package deal that comes with working with these great chefs but also working in these big companies. It’s about doing good food but also running a tight business, having correct food and labor costs, being able to recruit, hire a staff, working with your purveyors on relationships, getting the best products in. There’s a lot of discipline in those kitchens, from cooking to the business side, and that’s what I learned most.
On opening his solo debut, Graffiato
The first time I went on Top Chef, I competed with a lot of chefs who had their own restaurants and were successful. When I got back to DC after the competition, I started thinking about doing my own thing because I felt I was just as good as any of the chefs there. I put together a business plan, looked around [for a place], and talked to people. That was seven years ago—I left [Andrés’] Zaytinya about six years ago, and a year later I opened up Graffiato right across the street from the Verizon Center in DC, one of the busiest areas in the city. It’s all about location.
On design
I’m involved every step of the way. I create the feel that I want with the architects. For my first restaurant I didn’t have a lot of money, so it was more of an urban-style place where we fed off of this old building that we were in, but as we grow, each restaurant has a better design because I know a little bit more about what I’m doing. I travel a lot. I eat a lot. Design is very important. It’s not just about the food; it’s also about the wine, the beverages, the service, the ambiance, the location. Before, as a chef, I would just focus on putting up the best food I can. Now, as a restaurateur I focus on the total package, and the design is a major part.
On his largest undertaking yet: Isabella Eatery, a 10-concept food emporium opening at Tysons Galleria in Fairfax next year
I had most of the concepts already. I have a lot of the food done. I have a lot of the systems in place. I have a lot of the designs in place. Besides the steakhouse, we’ve been doing all this stuff most of my career and it’s about bringing it all together and making it really special. We’re offering a plethora of food all in one—from quick service, fast casual, full service, upscale dining, grab-and-go,
and curbside pickup. There’s nothing like it
in the U.S.
On his love of restaurants
It’s the hospitality thing, and it’s the way you grew up in an Italian family. You always have your family over on Sundays and for events and holidays. Everyone gets together—your neighbors and your cousins and your aunts and your uncles. It’s awesome setting up and having that. I get to do that every day in my restaurants.
