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PROJECTS: F+B
October 31, 2020

Drink It In: 3 Innovative Wine Bars

From vine to table, these dramatic locales serve up a new way to imbibe

Words by: HD Staff

Lahofer Winery in Dobšice, Czech Republic
Lahofer Winery in Dobšice, Czech Republic

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October 31, 2020

Drink It In: 3 Innovative Wine Bars

From vine to table, these dramatic locales serve up a new way to imbibe

Words by: HD Staff
Lahofer Winery in Dobšice, Czech Republic

From a quaint bar in Kiev to an eye-catching winery in the Czech countryside, these three venues capture the craftsmanship of winemaking with thoughtful design moments.

Lahofer Winery
Dobšice, Czech Republic

Designed by Czech architecture studio Chybik + Kristof, the $7 million Lahofer Winery celebrates both culture and nature, reflecting a longstanding symbiosis in the wine-producing area of Znojmo. “The structure immerses itself into the surrounding vine rows, thereby preserving the essence and integrity of soil and culture,” says Ondrej Chybik, who founded the firm alongside Michal Kristof. To limit interference with the countryside, the studio divided the 42,000-square-foot complex into three interconnected spaces, housing a light-filled visitor center, winemaking facility, and administrative base. Playing on the aesthetic of traditional cellars, a colonnade of exposed vaulted beams frame the interior, the distance between each arch defined by that of the vine rows outside. In this visually symmetrical chamber, visitors are invited into a wood- and concrete-clad tasting room and cellar, the dramatic curving ceiling enhanced by a mural painted by visual artist Patrik Hábl, whose sparse and irregular strokes echo the soil’s color variations. Meanwhile, to enhance the public component, the visitor center’s exterior morphs into an undulating roof that doubles as a viewing platform and open-air amphitheater for concerts and events, including grape harvest celebrations. “The result is humble yet imposing,” adds Kristof, “with an atmosphere conveying the archetypal character of regional cellars.”

Balthazar
Kiev, Ukraine

Featuring a medley of green tones, Balthazar spans more than 1,700 square feet beneath the century-old Besarabsky Market in the heart of Kiev. Its location at the UNESCO-protected building meant local practice Rina Lovko Studio had to adhere to strict architectural restrictions while constructing the subterranean space. “The complex construction of the basement, an old building with the status of a monument, and bureaucratic red tape made the work difficult and long, but we overcame it with non-standard solutions,” says firm manager Oleksandr Maruzhenko. This included digging deeper into the earth to lower the floor and, in turn, gain ceiling height. With ample brickwork and wood elements, including a communal table and bartop made from old wine barrels, Balthazar mimics an age-old cellar that’s been enlivened with contemporary touches, such as steel fixtures, a new metal door aged with artificial rust, and a mix of yellow artificial light and candlelight for “a warm basement twilight,” explains Maruzhenko.

Autentista
Prague

When transforming a former home and later café into Autentista, a sleek champagne and natural wine bar in Prague’s Old Town, “the main inspiration was the atmosphere,” says Katarina Varsová, senior architect and interior designer at local studio Formafatal. “It needed to be distinctive, luxurious, pure, and simple.” That is evident in the opulent material palette, featuring sections of prefabricated steel that show off their natural patina and a layer of exposed sanded steel joints that juxtapose original vaulted ceilings and archways. Wine references appear in the rich burgundy gradients of the tables, wall lamps that recall a glass of poured wine, and intricate custom chandeliers. The showstopper: the light fixture hanging above a bar table. Partially produced from a burned acacia log—often used as fence posts marking the vineyards—it beautifully yet subtly connects the interiors to Autentista’s offerings.

Photography by Paul Grozyan, BOYSPLAYNICE, and courtesy of Chybik + Kristof

This article originally appeared in HD’s September 2020 issue.

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